Seychelles travel guide

Sprinkled in the glass-clear equatorial waters of the Indian Ocean, this 115-island archipelago is a one-off. A prehistoric jostle of verdant jungle tumbles down to the fish-rich turquoise sea, which foams against hulking granite boulders as smooth as giants’ marbles, and flirts with pristine beaches. It’s bestowed with a unique biodiversity — it’s the only place in the world where the gargantuan coco de mer palm grows and, other the Galapagos, where giant tortoises roam wild.
The country works hard to preserve its habitats, with entire islands set aside as nature reserves. So here the luxury lodges don’t dominate the landscape, but rather melt into it. And once you’ve been pampered in world-class spas and soaked up the vitamin “sea”, you can spend days hiking through forests of cinnamon and mahogany, seek out endemic wildlife, or don a mask for first-rate diving and snorkelling.
Layered on top of all this is a vibrant creole culture, forged from a mish-mash of pirates, explorers and settlers of African, European and Asian descent, meaning you can dine on spice-infused curries and jive to the beat of the tambour and tam-tam drums beneath velvet night skies salted with stars. These tranquil emerald isles are a balm for the soul, no matter what your budget.
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There’s plenty to do in the Seychelles, where you’ll find so much more than sand and sun. On Mahé, twist your tongue around the local creole lingo at the Victoria Market as you browse and barter for hibiscus-emblazoned shirts, plump tropical fruits and souvenirs. Or rise early and trek past otherworldly jellyfish trees and carnivorous pitcher plants to summit the peaks of Morne Seychellois, the highest mountain in the archipelago, or Morne Blanc. Both are inside Morne Seychellois National Park, which is laced with hiking trails — the 45-minute Copolia Trail is a favourite.
Hop over to Praslin island to visit the Unesco-listed Vallée de Mai, a prehistoric forest of coco de mer palm that bears the heaviest and sexiest seed in the plant kingdom. Shaped like a pair of pert buttocks, the mammoth nuts are found nowhere else on Earth and are prized souvenirs. Bird-watchers should also keep an eye (and an ear) out for the endemic black parrot.
To see the Seychelles’ other Unesco site, charter a boat and sail to the untouched Aldabra Atoll, marvelling at the bathtub-size carapaces of the largest wild population of giant tortoises in the world. Cheaper ways to see them include the tortoise rehabilitation centre on Curieuse, or Union Estate Park on La Digue — a virtually car-free isle that gives a real glimpse of laidback island life.
Wildlife lovers should migrate their attention toward the aptly named Bird Island, a breeding ground for a staggering 800,000 pairs of sooty terns, not to mention lesser and brown noddies, white fairy terns, waders and nesting hawksbills and green turtles.
• Best things to do in the Seychelles
From ultra-luxurious lodges with helipads and private chefs and eco-retreats on protected private islands to boutique creole B&Bs and self-catering beachfront apartments, the Seychelles has a hotel to suit every budget. Honeymooners can indulge in private beaches, plunge pools and sumptuous spa resorts, while families can try myriad water sports and organised activities. As a general guide, the further you travel from the main central islands of Mahé and Praslin, the more expensive and exclusive things get.
Mahé, the largest and liveliest of the islands, combines shopping and nightlife with the jungles of Morne Seychellois National Park. Affordable options are clustered around Beau Vallon, the island’s most popular beach in the north. Upmarket options, such as the Four Seasons Resort Seychelles and Anantara Maia Seychelles Villas, tend to congregate in the southern peninsula.
A 20-minute flight away, Praslin is the second largest of the islands but has a much quieter vibe, far better beaches and the Unesco-listed Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve at its centre. Five-star options such as Constance Lemuria and Raffles Seychelles claim the sunsets and pristine sandy bays in the west, while the three-star hotels and self-catering apartments that congregate near Cap Samy on the east coast enjoy good sunrises.
La Digue, the third largest island, is quieter still and your best bet for family-run guesthouses and boutique B&Bs.
• Best hotels in the Seychelles
Forget the Instagrammed-to-death Anse Source d’Argent beach on La Digue. Hire a guide (essential) and undertake the sweaty, challenging hike through the forest to Anse Marron — a little-visited Eden with a natural granite-hewn pool, bleach-blond sand and crystal-clear waters.
Alternatively, seek out one of the Seychelles’ last untouched beaches: Anse Georgette on Praslin. Billed as one of the best in the world, it’s public but set inside the grounds of the five-star Constance Lemuria, so few know it’s possible to visit. Just call ahead and then walk through the private resort — stopping at the 15th hole of their world-renowned golf course for picture-perfect views of Georgette — to discover this comma of pure white sand lapped by foamy azure waves. There are no cars, cafés or sun loungers, so bring everything you’ll need plus a picnic.
Finally, if you’d like to purchase a coco de mer, avoid the souvenir boutiques and visit a wholesaler instead (any taxi driver can recommend one); they sell them for significantly less and offer a larger selection.
• Best beaches in the Seychelles
April, May, October and November are the hottest and driest months to visit the Seychelles, with calm seas offering good visibility for those keen on diving and snorkelling. If you want to see wildlife, October is the best month. From October to December, sea turtles come in to nest, but you’ll have to wait until January to March for the hatchlings to emerge. This overlaps with the whale shark migration season, which tends to take place between October and November. September and October are the months when migratory birds will pass through the Seychelles, although you’ll want to aim for April or May for breeding season and from May to September for nesting. The period from December to March is generally to be avoided though, for this is the wet monsoon season. It’s also worth bearing in mind that weather patterns can vary significantly between islands.
• Best time to visit the Seychelles
Is the Seychelles a better option than the Maldives? If you’re looking for more than a “fly and flop”, yes. The Maldives is composed mainly of flat sandbanks with one resort, where activities are predominately water-based. The landscapes of the Seychelles islands are much more diverse, so the range of things to do is wider: from exploring local villages, to hiking, diving and sampling creole food. Finally, the islands aren’t scattered over huge distances as in the Maldives — most are less than an hour apart via ferry — making it ideal for island hopping.
• Mauritius v the Seychelles: which is better?
How many days do I need to see the Seychelles? Ideally, a minimum of seven days. This allows you to explore at least two different islands at a leisurely pace. The most popular option is to combine Praslin and La Digue. If you can stretch to ten days, you can start adding a third or fourth island to the itinerary.
Which part of the Seychelles is best?Each of the 115 islands has its own ace card. For basking on beaches and toasting sunsets pick Praslin, for top-notch diving try protected Silhouette, for exploring laid-back island life by bike you can’t beat La Digue. Ninety per cent of the population live on Mahé, so to mingle with locals there’s no better choice than the largest island.
CurrencySeychellois rupee
Inspired to visit Seychelles but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Tui and Tropical Warehouse.
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